The blog that wasn't

40 days, 950 km, 64 temples, but hardly a computer anywhere in Shikoku! So my blog has not happened, but the pilgrimage is definitely happening. I've walked through rugged mountain paths in towering forests and along stretches of the vast Pacific Ocean, along busy roads and through small rural villages. It's a lot tougher than I thought it would be, and also very much more rewarding than I ever imagined. When my trip is over, I'll start posting sections of my diary with pictures. You'll meet the people I've walked with, you'll see the temples and the scenery, and maybe you'll start dreaming of Shikoku too...

Postcard from Shikoku

15 days and 350 km into the trip, and I feel as if I've always been here - traveling in Japan from temple to temple. From Ryozenji, the first temple, the path leads along a busy road and through the narrow streets of small rural towns. The roar of passing cars and the clank of farm machinery slowly fade as the path narrows to a small ridge between rice paddies and then widens again to lead through orchards and gardens. Mandarin, sudachi lime, and pomelo are in season. Kiwi vines spawl across trellises and  persimmon trees are heavy with bright orange fruit. Pink and purple cosmos dance in the fields against a backdrop of dark pine trees and swaying forests of giant bamboo.

And suddenly the great gate of the next temple comes into view. I bow at the entrance, walk into the temple compound, and gratefully take off my backpack. Other pilgrims are already standing in front of the main hall lighting candles and incense. Fragrant smoke rises from the giant censor as pilgrims chant mantras and prayers.

Shikoku...? Where's that?

Shikoku, the smallest of Japan's four main islands, is well-known for its beautiful natural scenery: steep mountains in the interior, rugged Pacific coastline, and stunning views of the island-dotted Inland Sea. But I'm going for another reason - to walk the 1,200+ km 88-Temple Pilgrimage route around the island.

My flight leaves in a few hours, and tomorrow I'll be in Osaka. Over the next eight weeks I'll add more posts and pictures. Please join me here at Walking Shikoku!